Edible Articles: Malus

Fields: anna apple tree | Brown leaves on Apple tree | Apple growth | Apple Pollination | bacteria fire blight in cider apples | Minnesota fruit growers? | Yellow Transparent apple tree | Looking for a type of apple??

anna apple tree

From: pollinator@aol.com (Pollinator)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens.edible
Subject: Re: anna apple tree

In article <353CA9BD.7534@pacbell.net>, "T.Michael Reinhart" <reinhart@pacbell.net> writes:

>joemag@mysurf.com wrote:
>> The tag says self pollinating or use dorsett golden. Sunset gardening book
>> says it needs a pollinator, which is true? I could put in another apple
>> tree about 45 eet away, is this close enough? I also have a Fuji about
>> 50 feet away.
>> Joe

>My sources say the "Anna" is self fertile, but will have better fruit
>set with with another pollenator nearby. 100 feet is usually the rule of
>thumb as a maximum for spacing trees to cross pollenate, you should do

You need to distinguish pollinators and pollenizers.

Anna is self-fertile (so it will self pollenize, not self pollinate), but will yield better with a pollenizer (a source of compatible pollen). Crab apples are the pollenizers of choice for most commercial orchards.

Distance is relevant to your pollinators (bees). Honeybees make large colonies and have a long range. You can assume honeybees will travel easily a half mile, then will double that because of pollen transfer through jostling within the hives. If your primary pollinators are honeybees, you certainly don't need to be restricted to 100 feet for your pollenizer. (We are talking about home plantings here, not orchards.)

On the other hand, orchard mason bees are solitary; each female builds her own nest. They have limited range, a couple hundred feet, and there is no pollen transfer from bee to bee within a colony.

So if your primary pollinators are orchard mason bees, you need to have the nest site very close, and your pollenizers as well. The same holds true for carpenter bees.

If you use another variety as a pollenizer, make sure it blooms at the same time, and that it has viable pollen. Cummins Nursery (linked on our web site) has lists of varieties and their value as pollenizers. The Missouri site has more info, and lists Fuji as a pollenizer for mid and late blooming varieties.

Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA The Pollination Scene: http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html

Brown leaves on Apple tree

Newsgroups: rec.gardens.edible
From: "npm@netcom.com" <npm@netcom.com>
Subject: Brown leaves on Apple tree Sender: npm@netcom10.netcom.com

I got a couple of bare root trees from Springhill and I planted them and they all came on great. Except that now every single thing I bought from them has some kind of disease, I think, where the edges of the leaves are turning brown and crispy. It looks like it may eventually kill the poor plants. Anyone have an idea of what this problem might be, or any ideas on where I can go to get it identified (in San Diego, CA)?

-- Nancy Milligan Milligan Consulting Services

From: "J. F Hensler" <hensler@povn.com>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens.edible
Subject: Re: Brown leaves on Apple tree Reply-To: hensler@povn.com

Hi All:

The first thing you need to do is get a soil test done. It sounds like both of you are lacking a trace element in your orchard soil. We had a similar problem when we first planted our orchard and a soil test showed a lack of calcium, which was easily remedied by adding ground oyster shell.

In some states you can get a soil test through your local extension service. If not, Peaceful Valley Farm Supply in Calif. has a mail order kit available. Whatever the source, a soil test will be the best gardening/orchard money you will ever spend.

-- Skip and Christy Hensler THE ROCK GARDEN Newport, Wash. http://www.povn.com/rock

Apple growth

From: "Karl Townsend" <Karl.NOT@cmgate.com>
Newsgroups: alt.agriculture.fruit
Subject: Re: Apple growth

Apples continue to grow right up until they are picked, then they start to shrink (lose water)

Effect is pronounced when 1/2 of crop is removed on first picking and rest is left to mature.

P.K.Terrill wrote in message <3118@stork.ukc.ac.uk>...
>Hi all,
>Just a quick question that I hope someone can help me with please:
>"Do apples increase in fresh weight right up to (and 'past') commercial
>harvest, or does their weight plateau off some time before harvest."
>Thanks in advance,

Apple Pollination

From: pollinator@aol.com (Pollinator)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens.edible
Subject: Apple Pollination

An informative article on apple pollination has been placed at:

If this is helpful, go back to the home page for much more information and links on pollination.


bacteria fire blight in cider apples

From: "Karl Townsend" <Karl.NOT@cmgate.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.fruit
Subject: Re: bacteria fire blight in cider apples

This is a huge subject. Many entire books written.

1. avoid excessive nitrogen application. 2. remove any diseased wood and burn immediately. 3. apply strep. during boom according to prediction models.
One is "MARYBLYT". Other is is on Washington state apple web page.
Basically, models calls for strep application after three warm days if rain is possible.

An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
Two apples a day gets the doctor's OK.
Five a day makes you a fruit grower like me.

Karl.NOT@cmgate.com in Dassel,MN

Nigel Burch wrote in message <01bd7beb$48e2dc40$210d4cc3@nigelber>...
>We have a new cider apple plantacion in an area which is free of bacterial
>fire blight at present. However it is plantacions 300 kms from us .
>Can any one tell us any cutural techniques or whatever to reduce damage if
>it comes.

Minnesota fruit growers?

From: "Karl Townsend" <Karl.NOT@cmgate.com>
Newsgroups: alt.agriculture.fruit
Subject: Re: Minnesota fruit growers?

I am a commercial apple grower in Minnesota. Out of 7000 trees we have 20 praire spy.

My son and I call it the cardboard apple, because its taste reminds us of corrugated ;-) . It is an excellent pie apple, VERY hard and keeps for a long time. Tree form is type 3, if that means anything to you. It will take a lot of spreaders to flatten the branches out.


An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
Two apples a day gets the doctor's OK.
Five a day makes you a fruit grower like me.

Karl.NOT@cmgate.com in Dassel,MN

(remove the .NOT to e-mail me) Myra wrote in message <6j83e2$epv@chile.earthlink.net>...

>I Live in Minnesota and have a small orchard (very small- 9 trees), 3
>cherry, 2 apple, 2 pear, and 2 plum. The 2 apple trees are a U of MN-
>variety called Prairie Spy. This is a long shot, but does anyone reading
>this know much about this variety? I just planted those 2 trees last summer
>so I don't expect to see any apples yet this year but there were plenty of
>beautiful blossoms.
>Also, why do 99% of the messages in this group have nothing to do with apple
>Myra (mitaliano@nospam.yahoo.com) -remove the nospam to reply,

Yellow Transparent apple tree

From: "Susan K. Wehe" <swehe@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens.edible
Subject: Re: Yellow Transparent apple tree

Gosh, for a moment there, I was thinking that a transparent tree would be rather hard to find. Or that I could even be growing one and not know it until I tripped over it.... Windfall Ochards grow yellow transparent apples. http://www.thecompass.com/html/windfallhome.html


Linda Cline wrote:

> Gary Cooper <biggary@utdallas.edu> writes:
> > On 17 May 1998, Linda Cline wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > I'm looking for a source of yellow transparent apple trees,
> > > preferably dwarf. Does anyone know of one (mail order, or
> > > close to Portland, OR)?
> > >
> > >
> > Which is tranparent, the apples or the trees?
> >
> "Yellow Transparent" is the apple variety. It is an old variety,
> and originated in Russia circa 1870s. I grew up with this variety,
> and the apples are wonderfully tart (just the way I like them).
> I would guess that they are called transparent because the skin
> looks transparent when the fruit is ripe.
> Linda

Looking for a type of apple??

From: "counides,n" <beefalo@micron.net>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,alt.agriculture.fruit,sci.agriculture.fruit,rec.gardens.edible
Subject: Re: Looking for a type of apple?? Reply-To: beefalo@micron.net

Beverly Erlebacher wrote:

> In article <6l7pp8$ek1$1@news6.ispnews.com>, Apothek <apothek@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >I am looking for a type of apple called "Antonov" or "Antonovski" (sp?). It
> >is supposed to be native to Russia and the Ukraine. It is supposed to
> >resemble a Granny Smith with a "Sweet and Sour" taste to it and a softer
> >texture. It is supposed to be a hearty variety that can withstand northern
> >temperatures and can be stored for long periods of time. If anyone has any
> >info on this apple or can point me in a direction, your help would be
> >greatly appreciated.
> You are probably thinking of Antonovka. Seedlings of this apple as well
> as another Russian variety Beautiful Arcade were sometimes used as semi-
> dwarfing rootstocks in colder areas of Canada. Dolgo crab is often used
> as a non-dwarfing rootstock in the same areas.
> There used to be a nursery called Sursum Corda in Quebec that sold a lot
> of trees on these rootstocks, but I don't think they are still in business.
> I wouldn't get my hopes up about the quality of Antonovka fruit - I've never
> seen it recommended as anything but a rootstock. However, fruit quality
> in apples depends a lot on climate, so if you really want to try it, it may
> work out for you.

Bear Creek Nursery uses the Antonovka rootstock. They also have an extensive list of apple varieties. One of my favs is Keepsake developed by U of Minn and hardy to Zone 3.

Naomi Counides Associated Beefalo of Idaho

From: wildgene@aol.com (WildGene)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.fruit
Subject: Re: Looking for a type of apple??

Antonovka is quite a nice apple. Unless you live in a northern area it bears a little early to be a good keeping apple. If you are in the US it is available from St. Lawrence Nursery, Potsdam, NY. Scionwood is available from The Germplasm Repository at Geneva, NY.

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